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The Best Gas Powered Log Splitter – My Review of the SuperHandy 25 Ton Log Splitter

Some of you guys have contacted me about my review of the Superhandy chipper saying I should check out their log splitter. So here we go!

Gas Powered vs Electric

I have been watching with great interest as electric log splitters have gotten better and more available over the years. There are a lot of great things you get with electric, even though it has some drawbacks too.

But at this point, the electric log splitters that are out there just aren’t powerful enough for what I need.

I may do a review sometime in the future of a smaller electric version, but based on the kind of work I do, and the size of the logs I generally have to split, I stuck with gas-powered.

If you have more of a light duty situation, and don’t need to split larger diameter stuff, then electric may be okay for you.

The Basics

There are a zillion different log splitters out there.

Some cost tens of thousands of dollars. I have seen log splitters so fancy they do everything but tie your shoes!

Hey, I’d be happy to have a log splitter that would auto load big heavy logs and save my back. Sure, I’d love to own one that was 100 ton and could split wood rounds six feet in diameter.

But I haven’t won the lottery yet, so I wanted to buy a splitter that was affordable but would get the job done.

You typically want to pay attention to the tonnage listed, which will be directly related to the size of the logs it will split.

The diameter and the length of the logs will make a difference. Bigger is typically better, but that capacity tends to cost more money, so it’s smart not to buy one bigger than you need.

Why I Chose the SuperHandy 25 Ton Splitter

The SuperHandy 25 Ton Splitter – this is the one I recommend – Click >>HERE<< to check the latest prices on Amazon

I landed on this SuperHandy 25 ton unit for several reasons.

I really liked their woodchipper – check out my review of that here, if you haven’t seen it already.

The capacity is decent – with the 7 hp engine and 25 ton hydraulics, they claimed it could split up to 20″ log lengths and up to 16″ log diameters.

There are a couple of “extra” features I liked. The flat free tires are a big deal. I couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve gone to do some work and been delayed due to a flat tire on a wheelbarrow. Flat free tires cost the manufacturer more, but it’s a great feature to have in my opinion.

I also liked that it can be converted to split either horizontally or vertically.

It has a 2-stage gear pump, so it’s pretty efficient and not a gas hog.

With a 12-second cycle time, they claim up to 600 logs split per hour. I’m not out there to win a race or anything, but I didn’t want something with a super-slow cycle time. I need to get some work done!

My Review

I might as well tell you, my biggest gripe about this thing is the assembly.

I’m no dummy, I’m pretty handy and can put pretty much anything together. But when they say it may require two people to assemble… they ain’t lying.

I did get it put together by myself, but at various points I wished I was an octopus with eight arms. It’s not that it’s super complicated to assemble, but there are enough big/heavy parts to bolt together that you really need someone else to hold the parts while you get the bolts started.

This thing is quite beefy. So that’s good, in the sense that it will take a licking and keep on ticking. But don’t forget that means many of the components are commercial/industrial grade, so they are heavy.

The engine starts easily and has plenty of power. I really did split big, knotty chunks 16+ inches in diameter. I did on occasion jam the thing up, but I would either pull the hydraulic ram back and re-jigger the log and retry it again, or I would throw it off to the side to bust up with a maul later. That pretty much happens with any splitter, and I feel like this one does great considering its size/price.

The hydraulics work fine, and (so far) have no leaks.

I split several cords of wood over the course of two days, and ran many tanks of gas through this thing. It worked flawlessly!

The Verdict

I am happy with this purchase. Yes, there are much beefier or nicer splitters out there. But for the money, I think SuperHandy hit a sweetspot where the product is able to perform well and is durable.

I give it a thumbs up.

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The Best Felling Wedges – What I Recommend

One piece of tree cutting equipment I haven’t touched on yet is felling wedges.

What is a felling wedge?

You may use a felling wedge to basically “shim” a tree as you are cutting it down.

In that case, you would use it to either a) lean the tree one way or another by pounding a wedge (or several) into a cut you’ve created, or b) use it to open up a cut or to keep it open so your chainsaw doesn’t get pinched.

Along those lines, you might also use a felling wedge once a tree has been cut down and you’re bucking it or cutting it up on the ground. Same thing as before, you’ll pound the felling wedge into a cut in order to keep the wood from shifting and pinching your chainsaw.

Do not, under any circumstances, confuse a splitting wedge with a felling wedge!

A splitting wedge is made out of steel. You use it to split wood by pounding it with a maul or the blunt side of a heavy axe.

A felling wedge is typically made out of plastic or some kind of composite material. You do not want to get your chainsaw anywhere near a steel splitting wedge!

Many years ago, when I was younger and dumber (but better looking, ha ha) I was at a job site and needed a felling wedge but only had a steel splitting wedge. I told myself I would be really careful with my saw, and just keep it away from the splitting wedge that I used to keep the log from snapping closed. Well, the saw jerked around a bit and kissed that steel wedge, and all hell broke loose.

The saw kicked back viciously, just about tore my arm off, and the chain broke and whipped around and sliced my face open. Lesson learned, I never did that again!

What I Recommend

So what do I recommend? And why?

Let me tell you what I look for. This seems pretty basic, but I can save you some time by pointing out these basics…

1) Color

The nature of these felling wedges means they are constantly getting stuck between logs, dropped down under logs, or if you’re unlucky shot across a field. I prefer day-glo orange for this reason.

Pretty much any wedge will be a high-visibility color – neon green, or yellow, etc. But I’ve had the most luck with orange.

2) Size

There are two common sizes, a 5.5″ and an 8″. I like to carry both. Sometimes the 5.5″ isn’t quite big enough, and sometimes the 8″ is too big.

Plus I like to carry several of both. These things are cheap, and I don’t want to hike (or drive) to some job site and need another wedge and not have one.

3) USA

Ya’ll know I’d prefer to buy something made in the USA if I can. It’s not an absolute requirement, but why not buy American if you can. Unless you’re reading this as a resident of a foreign country. In which case, why not buy local if you can?

These are the felling wedges I use:

To check Amazon’s latest prices on these Cold Creek wedges- CLICK HERE

These wedges are made here in the US by Cold Creek. They are built pretty tough, and are a good bargain. They come with a little drawstring pouch, which I care nothing about. I use a felling wedge pouch like this one. I guess I will do a separate article sometime on a good pouch I recommend.

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How to Convert A Lightswitch to an Outlet

I know many visitors to my site expect me to stick to Chainsaws. But as it turns out, folks treat me more or less like a handyman, and I field a wide variety of questions.

One question I get a lot:

How do I convert a lightswitch to an electrical outlet?

Or:

Jeff, how do I add an electrical outlet?

Electricians are expensive, and I try not to hire one unless I really have to. As it turns out, adding an electrical outlet can be pretty simple under certain situations, and you may not have to spend the money on an electrician.

I recently wired in a new outlet for my neighbor down the street. They had a unique situation. The husband received a 3D printer from the wife for Christmas, and was enjoying using it as a new hobby. But after a few weeks of having it sitting and operating on the table in their dining room, they were wanting to find a more appropriate home for it.

They had a closet off the main hall that had plenty of room. It had some shelves in it and was rarely used. It did have an overhead light with a lightswitch, but it did not have an electrical outlet.

That closet made it very easy for me.

This is what you need…

To check Amazon’s latest pricing, >>>CLICK HERE<<<

Note this method won’t work if you don’t have a neutral wire supplied to the existing light switch.

My suggestions and tips:

1) Turn off the breaker that supplies power to the existing room/light switch.
2) Use a voltage detector or multimeter to make sure the switch doesn’t have power running to it and is safe to work on. Don’t have one? Click here.
3) Pull the switch out of the switch box, and disconnect the wires from the switch.
4) You will probably have two black hot wires (one is line, one is load), and a bare copper ground wire.
5) If you’re lucky, in the back of the box you’ll find a white neutral wire. This usually isn’t being used unless you already have some kind of smart switch installed. If this isn’t present, this method won’t work for you.
6) Figure out which of the black wires is your line wire, and wire it into the appropriate spot on your new switch/receptacle combo.
7) Same thing for your load wire, and your neutral wire. The directions provided with the new switch will tell you which terminal is which.
8) For the neutral wire that you fish out of the back of the box, just take the wire nut off and add a short (maybe 3 inch) pigtail, put the wire nut back on, and wire that pigtail into the correct terminal in the new switch.
9) Depending on what you ordered, you can make the new outlet switched (i.e. it only has power when you turn the light switch on) or continuous. The outlet will have a little bridge bar that you’ll have to remove if you don’t want it to have power continuously.
10) After you screw the new switch to the outlet box, turn the breaker back on and test both the switch and the receptacle to make sure they are getting power and work properly.

Don’t mess around with this if you don’t know electrical basics, as you don’t want to electrocute yourself or create a fire hazard.

That’s my quick/easy method for adding a receptacle to any room that has a light switch!

Let me know if you have questions.

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Chainsaw Sharpening Guide – How to do it | Tools I recommend

I am a little ashamed to admit this, but for a long time I would use a chain until it got too dull to cut, and I would throw it away.

I had tried sharpening my own chain before, but wasn’t satisfied with the results.

Taking it to a shop to have it done seemed like a bad option. The guy quoted me $6-$8 per chain to sharpen them. But I have to drive over there, leave them, then drive back to pick them up. When you look at what that costs including gas and wear and tear on my vehicle, I’d rather just spend $10 and buy a new chain!

But throwing them away is wasteful, and I regret all those years and all those chains.

Sharpening them yourself isn’t that hard when a) you know how, and b) you have the right tools.

Plus, now instead of using them until they are frustratingly dull, I will sharpen them pretty much after every use, even if it’s just a small tweak, and even if they aren’t in terrible shape. That means a lot less frustration, and a lot less downtime.

DIY Guide

If you’ve never done this before (or even if you’ve had some practice), here’s how I do it…

1. Pick your file size

I always use round files for sharpening. They do make square files, but that’s a topic for another day.

You’ll have to match your file size with your chain size. The most common sizes of chainsaw files are 5/32, 3/16 and 7/32. If you aren’t sure, check your owner’s manual. You can also look on the back of the box if you bought a replacement chain.

2. Disconnect

For the sake of safety, you should disconnect the chainsaw from its power source.

If it’s a battery chainsaw, you would not want to start sharpening the chain with the battery installed. Of course it would be unlikely that you somehow accidentally turn it on, but trust me you want to finish this up with all ten of your fingers working, so just remove the battery.

If it’s a corded chainsaw, obviously just yank the cord.

If it’s a petrol saw, you are supposed to remove the spark plug just to be 100% safe.

3. Clean it

I always take this opportunity to clean the saw and chain.

These things get dirty. If you’re like me, you make some serious chips fly, and they stick to and clog up everything.

Taking five minutes will get you a long way toward making sure your sharpening efforts are successful, and your saw is ready for it’s next use.

Undo the covers and knock the debris out. Check your bar oil. Check your chain tension. Check your air filter if you have one. I will typically even scrape out the bar groove etc.

4. Set the file/guide

You are probably going to use a little fixture/jig for the file. It acts as a guide so that you get the right angle when you’re filing the teeth. I’ll have a few recommendations a little ways down the page.

Your guide will have various angles, but 30 degrees is the most common.

5. Clamp

I’ve done this before without clamping, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

Most kits are going to come with either a bar holder for a bench vise that will work if you’re sharpening in your garage or workshop, or in a stump vise if you’re still at the job site and sharpening there. I’ve also seen tailgate vises.

6. File the first side/direction

I mark where I’m starting on the chain. That way you’ll know when you’ve made a full revolution – nobody wants to waste their time by filing twice.

Then file from the inside of the tooth to the outside of the tooth. The tip of the file is always going to point away from the chainsaw motor.

You will hold the file at 90 degrees to the flat guide bar and then move it at a 30 degree angle to the straight line of the chain. The guide you set up in step 4 will help you.

You file every other tooth along the chain from the first direction, and then you switch and do the same thing (hitting the teeth you skipped) from the other direction.

I usually sharpen 2 or 3 teeth, then release the chain brake and rotate the chain a little bit as I move along.

7. Reverse

After you’ve done that first side, flip the saw in your vice, re-clamp it, and do the other side.

Note – you are only going to file/sharpen on the “push” stroke. Files don’t file on the return stroke. It just doesn’t work that way, it will grab and you’ll get frustrated.

8. Depth gauges

Once you’re done filing/sharpening the cutting teeth, use the gauge included in your kit to check the depth gauge teeth on your chain. If they are too tall, which can happen as your cutting teeth wear and you file them down to sharpen them, then your chain will take off tiny little specks as you cut next time and it will take you forever.

So check the depth with the gauge, and use the flat file to shorten them if needed. These don’t require as much attention as sharpening the cutting teeth, but I always check them every time because it only takes a few extra minutes and you’re already right there ready to do the work.

That’s it!

Gear

First of all, you are going to want to wear gloves. Farting around with these chains is a good way to slice your fingers and hands up. There is a certain amount of dexterity needed to get this job done, and gloves will tend to hamper that, but it’s not worth the risks to go without gloves.

You can go cheap, you can nice, or you can go really nice.

My cheap recommendation is to get a manual kit like this Oregon.

Here’s my reasoning…

First, I like that it’s a “brand name”. Oregon has been in the game for a while. They have a good reputation, and you know their stuff isn’t crap, even though it’s around $20.

Second, I like that it comes in a pouch. It’s too easy to lose this stuff if it’s just loose and bouncing around in your truck or a box somewhere.

Third, this has all the common round file sizes, the flat file you need for depth, a handle for the files, and an angle gauge.

My middle of the road recommendation, if you are willing to spend a little more money, is to add an electric tool.

This Sharp Pebble tool is 120 volt, so it will plug in to any standard garage outlet.

It makes sharpening the teeth a lot more repeatable and goes maybe 50% to 75% faster.

And if you want to go all out, and get the nicest tool around, I would get the fully automatic Temco…

There’s a pretty good video on the Amazon page if you want to check it out.

These things are pricey, but when I say fully automatic, I mean this thing does everything but tie your shoelaces for you.

I use a basic kit plus an electric tool, but I stopped by one of the local saw shops to try one of these Temco’s out last week. It is really cool, and does a fantastic job. I am definitely considering buying my own.

So there you go, all of my recommendations as well as my pathetic confession! If you have any questions, just let me know and I’m happy to try and help.

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The Best Gas Powered Wood Chipper – My Review of the SuperHandy 7HP Chipper Shredder

Pretty much every time I am chainsawing, I end up with a bunch of branches to deal with.

In some cases, the tree is green an healthy and has leaves on it. In other cases the branches and limbs are dry and brittle. Regardless, they present a problem.

Usually a chainsaw is the best option to get the limbs off the tree. But any limb or branch that is less than around 1.5-2″ in diameter is hard to saw. As the limbs get too small, they scoot away from the chainsaw and you end up chasing them, which is not very efficient.

What am I going to do with this mess of limbs??!

Also, limbs and offshoots don’t just grow straight in one single direction. That have all kinds of curves and kinks. Which means they take up a ton of room, are hard to stack, and even hard to burn in a burn barrel.

My solution is to run all that smaller diameter stuff through a wood chipper.

You may be wondering what’s the difference between a chipper and a shredder? Allow me to clarify. The shredder sort of grinds up leaves and small, thin material. The chipper chops up thicker material.

I would love to have an electric (or even battery powered) chipper. Gas powered ones are noisy, stinky, and tend to be hard to start if they are rarely used and not properly maintained.

But honestly the plug-in chippers just aren’t strong enough for the work I do, and the branches I need cleaned up. I might review an electric one at some point, but for now, I focused on a beefier gas powered version.

Ya’ll already know I don’t have a billion dollars sitting around. I needed something affordable, but durable and powerful. And having used a few chippers before, there were a handful of features I was looking for in particular.

Why I Chose the SuperHandy 7HP 3-in-1 Chipper Shredder

superhandy-chipper-1
This is the one I recommend – CLICK HERE to check prices on Amazon
SKU GUO035-FBA
This thing is pretty beefy. Their website lists it at 136 lbs. I would consider it mobile of course, but it’s heavy enough that getting it in and out of a truck is not fun.

SuperHandy has another 7 Hp version that costs just a few dollars more that is their “compact” version. I think it only weighs 85 lbs. I checked that one out, but I felt like their standard version was built a little better.

It sits about 23″ high by 32″ wide.

The 7 Hp engine has plenty of power. It’s easy to start, and easy to maintain. They made it easy to check the oil, and to add gas.

I will say this thing is noisy, so that’s one drawback. Electric chippers are probably a bit quieter, but pretty much all of these gas powered ones are going to wake up your neighbors and require you to use ear muffs.

It has polyurethane wheels. The last thing I want is another tire to go flat.

It has a 15:1 reduction ratio, and they claim their two cutting blades (combined with the 15 Hp motor) can handle branches up to 3″ in diameter.

In my experience, 3″ is kind of pushing it. It seems to struggle a bit with 3″, but seriously that is a big chunk of wood. Something that big it’s probably just as easy to handle with a chainsaw. I would recommend sticking with maybe 2.5″ diameter, but jam it in there if you need to.

The handle bar at the top is sturdy, and good for shoving this thing around, man handling it, or getting it in and out of the back of a pickup.

I have never used the “vacuum” function, so I can’t really attest to how well that works. But it does a great job shredding leaves and of course chipping.

If you order one, there are a few parts to assemble, but it is easy and only takes a few minutes.

I have used this thing a lot over the last few months. I would guess I have already run it 50 or maybe even 75 hours. I love it, and I’m super happy with the purchase.

My Tips/Tricks for Use

Tip 1 – ditch the bag.

You know the bag SuperHandy provides to capture all the chipped up branches and keep everything neat and tidy? Yeah… throw that thing out.

It will fill up super fast, and be annoying than helpful.

I typically just work without any device to capture the debris. Then I rake/shovel it into a wheelbarrow, and I take it where it needs to go.

If you are working in a pristine area of a yard where you really do want to keep it clean, I guess you could fiddle with it and just empty it every few minutes.

You might be better off shooting it into a 5 gallon bucket?

Adding to Jeff’s equipment list –
+ 5 gallon bucket
+ shovel for wood chips
+ wheelbarrow

Tip 2 – get gassy.

You are going to want to keep plenty of gas on hand.

It’s not that this thing is a gas hog. It’s only 7 Hp, so you don’t have to feed a big block here.

But you will be surprised at how much fuel you’ll need if you work it pretty hard over the course of even just a few hours.

+ gas can

Tip 3 – spare a pair.

You should probably have a couple of spare chipper blades on-hand, just in case. These things are pretty durable as long as you avoid gravel, nails, and other non-wood items.

You may be able to get away without the extra cost. But I use my chipper a lot, and outside of routine maintenance and keeping the blades sharp, I don’t want to get halfway through a job and lose a blade and not have a spare.

I think these will fit.

Safety

I know you don’t want me preaching to you, but be careful.

We all want to eat our next meal with all our fingers and toes intact!

Don’t wear loose clothing while operating this thing. Wear eye protection. Wear ear protection (the thing is pretty loud). Don’t let any kids near it. And don’t let any squirrels fall in it (haha).

Ok, so that’s it.  If you are like me and need to spend your hard-earned money to buy a chipper, it’s the SuperHandy I recommend.

Contact me or leave a comment if you want to tell me about your experience!

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Black & Decker LCS1020 Chainsaw Review – Here’s What I Think

My neighbor recently bought a Black & Decker LCS1020 chainsaw. I don’t know why he didn’t just borrow one of my saws, but I digress.

I thought I would take the opportunity to try it out and let you know what I thought.

Specs

This saw has a 10″ bar. It is powered by a 20v lithium ion battery.

The battery is fairly small (as is the rest of the saw) at only 2Ah. The charger is pretty basic, and a little on the slow side. I think they call out an 8 hour charge time, which is kind of crazy. I left it plugged in overnight, but if you’re planning to do a lot of cutting, you may need two batteries, or two chargers, or both.

Specs from B&D:
Height: 9.6 IN
Length: 16.4 IN
Weight: 9.3 LB
Width: 8.8 IN
Voltage: 20 V
Watt Hours: 40

Here’s the LCS1020 owner’s manual/IPL.

Photos

Here are a few photos of what I was working with…

Features

Other than the battery system, charger, and 10″ bar, this saw has
tool-free chain tensioning system
oiling system to keep the bar and chain lubed
egonomic handles well-positioned for power and balance

What I Thought

There are a few things that I like, and some that I don’t.

First of all, addressing the elephant in the room, this thing is a small, light-duty saw. Don’t buy this if you are wanting to mow down the north forty, or make a career out of logging.

A 10″ bar is really only good for about an 8″ cut. Anything larger than that and you are out of luck.

Also, even if the bar was bigger, you do not have enough power here to attack the big stuff. Not only is the electric motor starting to struggle when you get the bar fully engaged, but the battery exhausts quickly at those higher stress levels.

Having said that, this is a nice and light saw. That means less fatigue in your arms and your back. It’s easier to manhandle, and in some cases even extend/reach stuff you wouldn’t otherwise try with a larger, heavier saw.

I like that it uses the same 20 volt battery pack as some of the other Black & Decker equipment. If you already have a few pieces of B&D goodies – like their drill, circular saw, blower, hedge trimmer, sander, sawzall, etc. – you can just buy the naked saw and use the battery and charger you already have. That will save a bunch of money.

The saw itself feels reasonably rugged and high quality. If you don’t throw it around and bang it up, I think it will endure just fine.

The battery on the other hand is probably a little fragile. It’s reasonably well-protected when installed on the saw, but things still happen, and when you have it on the bench charging, or when you’re installing it or uninstalling it you’ll want to be careful.

As with any electric saw, I like the fact that it’s so quiet. You totally eliminate the hassle of mixing fuel, sloshing it all over the place, breathing in the exhaust.

There’s zero hassle in starting it. Pull the button and go.

I was polite enough not to ask my neighbor what he paid for it, but I checked online and Amazon is selling them for just under $99 right now. I’ll post a link below if you want to check it out.

All in all, this is not my favorite saw, but for the money I think it’s a reasonable deal, and I can understand why they are so popular. B&D seems to be selling a lot of these, and I’m not surprised.

CLICK HERE to check latest pricing on Amazon
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Firewood Stacking and Storage – Why it really can mean the difference between life or death

What would you do if your power went out?

I mean besides fussing about missing the game, not having wifi, and having to postpone your steaming hot shower 🙂

What if it was out for entire day? A week? A month?

If you’ve been hanging around ChainsawsToday for very long, you know I’m not prone to drama or histrionics. But I’m a firm believer that every home needs a backup heat source.

The house I grew up in (a long time ago) had electric baseboard heaters. It was inefficient and expensive, so we tended to heat our house in the wintertime with a wood stove and a fireplace. The electric heat was of course a lot less trouble than a fireplace. You could just spin the thermostat’s dial and relax while the temperature climbed. You didn’t have to cut wood, split it, stack it, carry it inside, build a fire, maintain a fire, carry ashes out and dispose of them.

On the other hand, the wood heat never let us down. A power outage did not affect our ability to stay warm. There are lots of steps we should all take to guard against emergencies, storms, unexpected and uncontrollable events. But backup heat is pretty high on my list.

The cool thing about the topic of stacking and storing firewood is that it applies to so many people. On one end of the spectrum, we have folks who heat their homes exclusively with wood. Maybe towards the middle of the spectrum, we have folks who only burn wood in the fireplace. And then on the other end of the spectrum are the folks who only build a fire in the back yard on rare occasions, really just for fun or to cook some smores with the kids.

I bought a fire pit the other day that I love, by the way. It is one of those gigantic smokeless jobs from a company call Breeo. I sought them out because I wanted something durable that was made in the US of A. I think you can find them here:

Note to self: publish something here on the site about fire pit reviews.

Pretty much everyone should have a way to burn wood for heat, even if it’s “just in case”.

That means pretty much everyone should have some wood around.

Annnd, that means all of us should be stacking wood somewhere.

I am going to give you some tips about stacking and storage.

Seasoning is key. You want your wood moisture content to be 20% or lower. So…

Tip #1 – don’t burn green wood.

With enough experience, you can simply look at a piece of wood and tell whether it’s seasoned or not. Barring that, they do make moisture meters that make it a lot easier and less subjective.

The age of the wood is important. If it was recently cut down, it may still be full of sap and moisture. You will want to leave it to season for a year or two before burning it.

Tip #2 – don’t stack your wood on the ground.

Wood is porous. It tends to wick moisture. As firewood sinks into the ground, it will absorb moisture and may even start to rot. This can affect the row of wood above it, and the row above that, etc.

Tip #3 – Stack your wood bark side up.

The bark of the tree is a natural protectant. It will tend to shield sticks of wood from rain and snow, and help the rain run off to the sides instead of being absorbed.

Tip #4 – Both sunlight and air are good.

Remember, we want to “season” the wood. Covering it is good, but not wrapping it. Of course, it’s firewood so it’s not like it’s ruined if it gets wet!

But ideally we would store it under an awning or a tarp or a lean-to. And ideally, the covering would be high enough to protect it from rain and still allow direct sunlight. We really want that wood to bake in the sun day after day. Then it will burn clean, dry, and hot.

I have plenty of property. I don’t live in a neighborhood, and have no nosy neighbors to complain about my yard. So I don’t have to be picky about racking.

I learned how to do my own easy DIY firewood rack with a concrete block and a couple of knotty, warped 2×4’s. Here’s a picture of one of the dozens I have at the back of my fence line.

I typically staple a piece of re-purposed cardboard across the top, with re-purposed shrink-wrap over the cardboard.

This setup gets plenty of airflow, plenty of sunlight, keeps the wood off the ground, and is super cheap.

If you want something a little nicer, or your HOA does (ha ha!), you can get some pretty nice ones for $50-$100:

If any of you have your own tips/tricks, contact me or leave a comment, I’d love to hear them!

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Log Peavey Review – My Recommendations

Anyone who does very much sawing, anyone who starts to move beyond the very occasional backyard emergency response, is going to need a log peavey. If you have ever used one, I’m sure I just got your 100% stamp of approval with that statement. And if you’ve never used one… you are about to discover a chainsawing secret!

What is a Log Peavey

It’s a mistake to think chainsawing is all about sawing wood. It’s not that simple.

You have to saw it, yes, of course. But you have to fell it (cut the tree down). You have to remove limbs. You have to split wood, haul it, stack it, burn it, inspect it, measure it. You may have to sell it or even go get a permit to do something.

So what’s a peavey? Imagine a long lever arm you can use to multiply your strength.

They are typically made with a very thick handle, that can easily resist all the force you put into it. And that is topped off with a pivoting hook with its own sharp point that can jam into a log. And the third element is a second sharp point at the top that can be used to poke, pry, etc.

History of Log Peaveys

Maybe you didn’t come here for a history lesson, but I bet you’ll find this as fascinating as I do. The reason I say that, my post from awhile back on the history of the chainsaw is one of the more popular topics on the site!

There was a guy named Joseph Peavey. He was a blacksmith in Stillwater, Maine. He’s the guy who was credited with inventing the Peavey in 1858, hence its name.

This guy was basically a mechanical genius, and is credited with many other inventions, including
– Peavey hoist for pulling stumps and lifting dam gates
– hay press
– wooden screw vice
– special inkwell
– a new waterwheel

His son Daniel helped him make the first prototype, which they continued to tweak and modify to improve its performance.

James Henry Peavey, who was actually Joseph’s grandson, perfected the device and its design into what so many of us use today. These were manufactured and sold through the Bangor-Edge Tool Co (see photo).

One side note. I frequently see stores, catalogs, and websites misspelling it “Peavy”(sic). Please help me stamp out the ignorance! The guy who invented it is Peavey, let’s make sure we get his name right.

What is a Log Peavey Used For?

Although it’s really an indispensable tool, it is most helpful in three cases:
1) Turning a heavy log or piece of wood so you can cut the other side of it.
2) Moving, dragging, or shoving something out of the way.
3) Prying a piece of wood apart.

These are not lightweight, high precision tools. They are beefy, brutal, and made for big nasty guys to do big nasty things with! And hey, I don’t mean to be a close-minded old fart – there are a lot of women out there these days making the chips fly. And the gals I know have no qualms about throwing a shoulder behind a peavey.

My Recommendations

I’ve used a lot of different log peaveys over the years, some good and some bad.

A peavey comes in different lengths. It’s probably best to consider how tall you are, how strong you are. For that matter, it’s probably best to consider your budget. But for the sake of simplicity, I’m just going to tell you what I like, and let you make your own choices.

I prefer longer peaveys, and I prefer they are made out of wood.

In general, you’ll find 58″, 59″, or 60″ tools for the long version. The shorter versions are usually 48″ or 49″. The reason I prefer the longer ones is just leverage. Remember Archimedes saying give me a long enough lever and I can move the world? Well, I don’t know about the whole world, but I have run into some big, heavy, stubborn pieces of wood.

The longer tool is typically heavier, and yes that is a drawback. Especially if you’re carrying a bunch of gear a long distance out to a work site. But I’ve found the benefit of the extra leverage and extra force is worth the drawback of the extra size/weight.

Why do I prefer wood? Well, I don’t know. I guess it’s hard to explain.

There is a certain sense of rightness, and fairness in using a tool crafted from wood to do woodworking. And also, I’ve found, even when wearing gloves, a wooden peavey is a little more forgiving and agreeable in my hands as compared to steel.

This article is getting a little long-winded, so let’s get to my suggestions.

This particular one from Lowf is what I’ve been using for years now. It is 60″ long, with a 16″ hook opening. The handle is wood, and is a beefy 2.5″ in diameter.

–>>>Click HERE to check “Lowf” prices on Amazon<<<<--
The only negative comment I have is about the fastener the hook pivots on. One time, my nut came off, and then of course the bolt fell out and my hook came loose. I was able to reattach it and keep working, but I wish the screw was a bit longer, and that way I could double-nut the whole thing.



>>Check the latest prices for the 60″ peavey on Amazon – CLICK HERE <<…

If you prefer a shorter version, give this peavey a try.

It is 49″ long, and has a high quality carbon steel head and hook on it. The hook has a 15.5″ opening. The handle is wood, and it’s 2.3″ in diameter.

I do not own this particular one, but it’s the exact one my neighbor has. I have used his many times, and it is a good solid piece of equipment that is worth its price.


>>>Check latest prices on Amazon for the shorter peavey – CLICK HERE!…<<

So that’s it. If you have any feedback or suggestions for other good log peaveys, feel free to leave a comment or send me an email.

Jeff

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Chainsaw Shin Guard Review – What I Recommend

I’ve noticed that I get a lot of questions about chainsaws and tree cutting equipment in person, but a lot of questions about chainsaw safety gear via this website.

I wonder sometimes if guys who use chainsaws feel like they have to measure up to the stereotypical “man’s man” – insert manly grunting and chest thumping here – and for that reason are reluctant to ask my opinion about safety gear when in person.

Regardless, I have published a few safety-related articles here on the site already. My gloves post is probably one of the most popular. And this kit is my go-to suggestion for Father’s Day or Christmas gifts for dad.

But you’re here to talk about shin guards, so let’s shift the conversation there.

Ya’ll already know I’m a grumpy old man. I still get around pretty well, but on hot summer days if I’m out messing around with friends or family, sometimes I’m reluctant to wear shorts. That’s because my shins look like an old chewed up dog bone. I guess I look my age for the most part, but my shins look like they belong to a 90-year old!

My shins have taken a beating over the years. Kicked, scratched, scraped, bruised, and yes (unfortunately) cut by a chain saw. They have all kinds of scar tissue, and they have gotten to the point where even the slightest little bump will break the skin, make a bloody mess, and create yet another scar.

While chaps are basically a requirement for anyone who is going to use a chainsaw, for the last few years I have taken it one step further and I now wear shin guards over my chaps.

No, I’m not trying to look like a safety wimp. No, I don’t want you to make fun of me or give me a hard time. It’s actually just the opposite. I put the gear on that I know I need, that I know is helpful, based on many (many) years of experience, and I go get the job done, period. Anybody that takes issue with that, well it’s the land of the free and that’s their right. But my results speak for themselves.

A good pair of chaps are very effective at reducing abrasions to your shins, and probably more importantly provide significant cut protection to your femoral artery and other very risky spots. But after banging my shin through the chaps, or getting rolled up on by some 500 lb round, or whacked by a peavey that didn’t stay where it was supposed to, I went looking for a hard-shell guard to go over the chaps.

My Recommendations

I’ll cut to the chase. I have tried pretty much every shin guard there is out there. I’ve only found two that I like, and neither is prefect. But here are my picks.

Everest Chainsaw Shin and Knee Guard


[click here for Everest pricing] I have a love/hate relationship with these Everest guards.

I love that they are lightweight. They have a rigid plastic (the orange part that you see on the front) that works really great for protecting against scrapes, gouges, bruises, and pretty much any shin abuse. I mean, basically, I give these things an A+ at protecting my shins.

When I am wearing these things, my shins are bulletproof!

What do I hate? Well, the straps are sort of thin. So by the time I cinch them up, especially over the top of a pair of jeans and chaps, they don’t seem sturdy enough. And that leads me to the buckles. The buckles, if you put too much tension in the straps, will pop loose. It doesn’t happen a lot, but it happens often enough for me to cuss them every now and then.

Other than that, these things are awesome. I’ve been through several pair. They aren’t very expensive, and well worth the money.

–> Check the latest Everest shin guard pricing on Amazon… <–

QOGIR Snake Gaiters



I know we are supposed to be talking about shin guards here, but I have also used these snake gaiters with pretty good results.

I do no like them as much as the Everest guards. One gripe is they fully wrap around your leg, which makes sense from a snakebite protection frame of mind. But that makes them hot and restrictive, more so than they need to be. I’m looking to protect my shins, not my calves.

Also, these do have a hard plastic polypropylene sheet, but it’s inside layers of fabric. It does work, but it doesn’t have the same tendency to make things bounce off as having the hard plastic layer on the outside of the guard.

And these Qogir gaiters are a little more expensive than the Everest guards. I guess that’s my only complaints, and it’s not much.

–>Check the latest Qogir gaiter pricing on Amazon…

Now trust me, I have tried a bunch of other products for shin protection, and these two are the only ones I’ve liked enough to recommend.

If you guys have some different suggestions for products you’ve tried, leave a comment or email me! I’m eager to check them out.

Jeff

Posted on

Lightweight Chainsaw Alternatives | What’s Out There and What I Recommend

I know we all want to think of ourselves as indestructible. I’d sure love to tell you I can sling a 40 lb chainsaw around all day and not be exhausted. But the truth is, I’m getting older. And unless you’re a professional arborist you probably don’t need the biggest (heaviest) chainsaw out there.

In fact, it’s quite frequent that folks come to me asking advice not about the biggest or most powerful chainsaw, but the lightest.

Yes, some of these are women. Single women are homeowners too, and ya’ll know that I’m a staunch advocate for everyone that owns a home also owning some kind of chainsaw. But regardless of man vs woman, nobody likes for their back to hurt at night, and it makes sense to get a chainsaw that will get the job done, rather than focusing on one that will impress you neighbors.

In fact… you may not need an actual chainsaw at all. What if I told you that a certain portion of you could get by with a “chainsaw alternative”? No, I’m not talking about a bow saw! I’m looking to decrease the amount of backache you have, decrease the amount of work you have to do, not increase it.

Intrigued? Well, here are some of my recommendations.

Worx WG320 Jawsaw

The Worx WG320 Jawsaw Is my top pick! >>> Check Prices on Amazon
This is by far my favorite back saving chainsaw device. No, it is not for everyone. If you have giant trees to cut down, this is not what you want to buy. It only cuts stuff up to 4″ in diameter.

There is a ton of stuff that I like here.

Most importantly, given the topic at hand, it only weighs 11 lbs. And it’s unique ergonomics make that 11 lbs very easy to manage. The way the Worx guys have basically strapped this chainsaw to a pole make it ideal for cutting branches on the ground without even bending over! It’s hard to overstate this, or to explain just how awesome it is. So much of the casual chainsaw user’s time is spent bent over sawing up small (less than 4″) branches. You know how that goes, it’s a constant battle to keep the chain from dinging the ground and getting dulled immediately. The way this Worx unit works, you just thrust the jaws straight down at the branch and the blade cuts it with no real risk of hitting the ground. Plus, you’re just standing straight up rather than bending over. And really the weight of the saw (all 11 lbs of it) is taken up by the jaws resting on the branch below, so it’s like a double-whammy of goodness.

This unit uses the same 20V battery that you’ll find in a lot of Worx product. You may already have one laying around if you’re using a Worx string trimmer. If so, you can save yourself some money since Worx does offer the unit on it’s own, without a battery and charger.

Save your back!

There are plenty of benefits of going battery/electric in this case. You don’t have to mess with pre-mixed fuel. You don’t have to start and stop the saw as you rearrange the branches and wood to be cut. It’s fairly quiet, so you won’t drive your neighbors crazy. And it has plenty of torque/power given its size.

This thing has literally thousands of reviews on Amazon, with a rating of I think 4.5 out of 5. So it’s not like I’m climbing out on a limb (pun intended) by myself, or promoting something that’s not mainstream. This is a great piece of equipment, and as long as you’re not expecting to use it like a lumberjack, I’m betting you’re going to love it.

You can check the reviews and the latest pricing for the Worx product >> HERE.

Sun Joe 24V-HCS-LTE-P1

The Sun Joe 24V-HCS-LTE-P1 is a lightweight alternative to traditional saws! >>> CHECK LATEST AMAZON PRICING

This Sun Joe is not as capable as the Worx, but I’m putting it on the list for two reasons.

First of all, the weight. At 5.3 lbs, you can’t have a discussion about lightweight chainsaws without throwing this in the hat. You will not be Paul Bunyan reincarnated when you power this thing on, but you also won’t be crying to your chiropractor either!

Second of all, the price. At around $50 including the device, the battery, a charger, and a little bottle of chain oil, you are not going to find a cheaper way to save your back. I mean, I guess you really could run down to the hardware store and buy an old-school wood saw, but good luck with your back flexing that thing.

This is only a 5″ blade, so like the Worx unit it is limited in its capacity. If you find yourself doing a lot of clean-up on the ground with branches no thicker than your forearm, that’s where this type of saw will do fine.

Only 5 lbs!!!

As you can see, this is a different form factor than the Worx. It is handheld as opposed to pole mounted. So you may be bent over more, depending on what you’re trying to cut.

This does use the standard Sun Joe 24 volt battery. And like I mentioned before, there are lots of great benefits going electric rather than petrol. This thing is very quiet, and you won’t spend your hard earned cash down at the gas station sloshing gasoline and 2-cycle oil into a can.

So that’s it, for now. Two recommendations for lightweight alternatives to the big boys I sometimes review. These two won’t break your budget, and won’t break your back. If you can afford it, I would actually recommend buying something small like one of these in addition to a larger (more traditional chainsaw).

If you want to read over the reviews and see what the latest prices are for the Sun Joe, click HERE.